Road tripping and monkeys

Augie feels right at home.

Augie feels right at home.

Northern Thailand is lush, verdant, and completely ours. We took Lada’s car, equipped with a brand new overpriced gps, and made our way north to Lopburi where the monkeys are sacred. An ancient temple encircled by traffic, dingy buildings, and street vendors is home to hundreds of red-assed monkeys. The people here take good care of the little buggers, which is evident in their mostly relaxed behavior when presented with a peanut-toting farang.

It’s easy to get nervous around monkeys. They walk towards you at unpredictable speeds: sometimes slowly, then a few quick hops and their right under you. And they stare… they stare you down. Looking back you wonder if the same thoughts are going through their head: “are you gonna be nice?”

Turns out they were. They had gotten used to humans. Unlike the monkeys around Angkor Wat, these monkeys had survived because, not in spite, of humans. Lada tells me that every so often the townspeople get together and set up a huge buffet… just for the monkeys. Not a bad life, probably. But then again, the transition from a wooded to a concrete forest must have been a tough one.

I snapped plenty of pics and vids. Lada scrunching her face in fear while the monkeys snatch the food out of her hand is a priceless moment. And there’s the video of a baby monkey climbing my shorts to get at, and steal, the bag of peanuts in my hand, just before another steals the very stick I was supposed to use to keep them at a distance. Sneaky little turds. I’d want one if they weren’t so damn… human-like.

An hour later we had our fill of monkeys, and they our food, so we got in the car and headed on to the next town. After a pretty uneventful night in what must have been a ghost-hotel, we drove to Lampang to check out the elephant conservatory.

The glory and tragedy of Cambodia

Took Took v. Adam Shirley

I’m all took tooked out, man. Took tooks are the taxis of South East Asia. It’s a moped or moto attached to a passenger carraige. I think I’ve heard, ‘sir, took took!’ or ‘hey guy, took took!’ or even ‘lady, took took!’ more times than I’ve blinked these past few days. Telling them you already have a driver works much better than just saying no.

But on these fun, strange little taxis we’ve traveled to glorious ancient temples of Angkor Wat, local markets swarming with life and color, royal palaces bursting with riches, genocide museums, and uncountable assortments of tourist traps peppered with hawkers and beggers.

It’s amazing that most of this sprang up in the last two decades, with 1/4 of the population wiped out and the rest suffering pshycological damage and a severe lack of education. Humans will endure. Crazy power-mongers, sociopaths, or self profesed ‘do-gooder’ revolutionaries cannot completely destroy the march of civilization… thank goodness. But they sure can set it back a generation or two.

Due to the wars/revolutions of the seventies and eighties, Cambodia is still largely undiscovered. Unlike Thailand, India, all of South America, and probably most of the rest of the world tourism and globalization is still just getting started around here. So, if you’re going to check our Cambodia, do it now! Before it turns into another sterile tourist-churning machine. Just keep an eye out for land mines…